lokakuu 25, 2020, 21:13:08 ip

Uutiset:

Tervehdys, kaksi samaan aikaan sattunutta teknistä muutosta / ongelmaa summa aiheutti vajaan viikon katkon foorumille. Nyt palvelinohjelmisto on jouduttu päivittämään uuteen ja sekä ulkoasu että toiminnallisuus on muuttunut. Toivotttavasti ei ainakaan kovin paljoa huonompaan suuntaan. Odottamattomia ongelmiakin saattaa ilmaantua.


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Viestit - Edymnion

101
Bonchi / Vs: Montmorillonite Clay?
lokakuu 04, 2011, 21:19:02 ip
Lainaus käyttäjältä: Mayloa - lokakuu 04, 2011, 17:09:18 ip
Nice! I'm looking forward to the results  :D
Well, so far so good.  Two days and there is no sign of wilting, no discoloration, nothing.  Looks to be perfectly happy at this point.
102
Bonchi / Half 'n Half, or Whole Hog?
lokakuu 04, 2011, 05:43:17 ap
Everything I've seen about making bonchi (pretty much just from here) has talked about cutting the pepper back both above ground and below at the same time.  Prune the branches back into a trunk, and prune the roots to fit the bowl at the same time.

Assuming one has the space and time for it, would it not be a better idea to cut the plant back above ground while leaving the entire developed root system in place until the plant recovers?  As in, wait until you get new growth, THEN cut back the roots?

Seems to me that it would be better to spread the damage and the shock out over time rather than hitting the plant with it all at once.  Or is there something to it that I'm missing?
103
Bonchi / Vs: Montmorillonite Clay?
lokakuu 02, 2011, 18:07:12 ip
Decided to give this stuff a test before buying anything else.  Pulled a weed sapling out of the yard and put it in a container with nothing but this stuff.  If it doesn't die within a week or two I'll consider it safe.
104
Bonchi / Vs: Montmorillonite Clay?
lokakuu 01, 2011, 23:50:37 ip
Well, the difference after being calcined is primarily that the clay becomes more absorbent to water.  I went out and pawed through the mix I had laid out last night and after all night and day it was still very moist (you'd swear it had just had water poured on it 5 minutes ago as opposed to 20 hours ago).  So its obviously very absorbent as is.

My main concern is that it has a slight turpentine smell to it now.

I think I'll put this stuff aside for the time being.  Got a bead on a specific brand of kitty litter sold at Walmart (Special Kitty in a yellow bag) that others have been using for a while now that sounds like a good one to try and find.
105
Bonchi / Montmorillonite Clay?
lokakuu 01, 2011, 03:51:57 ap
Was reading up on "real" bonsai and got into the whole akadama thing and how inorganic soils are used, yadda yadda yadda.  Anyway, read that one good (and cheap) way to do this was to buy a bag of the oil absorbant you can get at any auto store.  Looked it up on the bonsai wikibooks, and it does indeed montmorillonite clay particles as a good growing medium.  Checked the fine print on the bag, yup, its the right stuff.

Just got home with it and did a test pour to see how much water it held (quite a bit, actually, I was impressed), but something more immediate hit me.  This stuff fizzed like a soda bottle the instant water hit it.  It produced vapors.  And sticking my finger in it proved the mix to be warm (an exothermic reaction must have occurred).  My immediate first response was "What the blankity blank blank is going on here?  I'm supposed to put a plant in THAT?"

Whatever it was seemed to go away after that initial pour, so I'm guessing it'll be safe if I give it a good washing first, but I still wonder.  The fact it warmed up a little told me it was an actual reaction going on, not just nucleation, but what exactly is in this stuff?

Its a bag of Moltan's oil absorber I bought at Auto Zone, only ingredients listed were the monmorillonite clay and silicates (sand), so I'm stumped.
106
Traditional growing / Vs: To fork or not to fork?
syyskuu 29, 2011, 17:11:59 ip
I think he covered it pretty well in the video as to why he cut below the fork.

Letting them grow however they want they will try to get very tall, and the combined weight of the branches and peppers can be enough to tear the branch off of the main trunk entirely, especially if it gets windy (or in your case if you bump it indoors).  By cutting below the fork he's forcing the plant to stay short and bushy so that its more stable.

Also for indoor plants, you probably aren't going to be giving them a huge pot and the entire corner of your room, so you don't want them getting 5 feet tall and turning into a small tree indoors, this helps keep them smaller and a more managable size.

And no, long as you leave it some green it shouldn't hurt the plant too much.  Peppers are very resilient.
107
Bonchi / Vs: Wiring?
syyskuu 27, 2011, 22:03:44 ip
Didn't think there was a difference.  Just getting my mats ready for when I cut down my bhuts in a couple weeks and was looking at bonsai wire and my jaw hit the floor when I saw prices upwards of $50 for a small spool of wire that might cost me $5 at a hardware store.
108
Bonchi / Wiring?
syyskuu 27, 2011, 19:39:43 ip
Pretty sure that wire is wire, long as we're talking single strand of the same gauge and material.  Is there any real reason to pay the premium on bonsai wiring as opposed to just hitting the local hardware store and getting a spool of single thread copper?
109
Bonchi / How to Train Seedlings for Bonchi?
syyskuu 22, 2011, 21:59:58 ip
With all the fun I've been having getting my Halloween bhut jolokia setup ready, I've ordered some numex halloween ornamental peppers from NMSU.  They're fairly normal ornamental chilis (I presume), except that the fruit is black to bright orange.

I want to make a bonchi out of these, but ornamentals tend to be spindly and bushy by nature, not exactly the best thing for trying to make a nice tree out of.  Right now I've got one seedling and another I just planted at it's base to try and get two stems to fuse with, maybe that will help solve the thickness problem.  Also, when it comes to fusing stems, I've seen that some stems really don't like to fuse, and some just refuse to do it.  Can fusing be encouraged by distressing the stems (rough them up, scar them with a razor blade, etc) so that they will have a better chance at fusing together as they heal?

Anyway, on to my question!
These things like to be short and bushy, I want tall and tree-like.  How can I encourage the growth patterns I want?  I'm assuming the most obvious way would be to simply prune off any low branches that try to grow in order to force the plant upwards.  But with ornamentals being a determinate (again, I presume, never grown ornamentals before, but if they stop growing in height, they must be determinate, right?) would that be doing more harm than good?

On a related note, I also plan on making this one grow over some ornamentation (I have a nice looking aquarium decoration I plan on using).  I know the basics of burying the decoration directly under the young plant so that the roots will be forced to grow around it, but is there a better way to make sure the roots grow down far enough to cover it nicely?  My first thought was to dig away the soil from the base of the plant a little at a time, forcing roots to move down to keep finding better soil.  Seems a little risky though.  While searching for something else, I found a bonsai site showing how to make an actual tree hug a rock by putting the base where you wanted it, and a little soil wrapped in cellophane to force the roots down out of the bottom.  After they had roots coming out the bottom, they simply planted it normally so that the rock was still above the soil line.  Later, chop it down, peel off the cellophane, and bam, good to go.  Would that be a viable tactic to use on peppers as well, or should I stick to just planting them over what I want and cross my fingers?
110
Bonchi / Halloween Bonchi Project - Getting Started
syyskuu 22, 2011, 21:34:21 ip


Its not quite time to cut my big bhut jolokia back into a bonchi yet, but its getting very close.  I'm really hoping for some massive roots once I dig it up, but the ones on the surface now aren't bad.  It was a late start getting planted (weather destroyed my first batch), so its just now ripening pods.  But, it should be ready to cut back in time for Halloween, and considering how deathly hot these things are, I'm going to make a themed bonsai out of it.


Thats my rough mockup with a handy stick from the woods.  Skeleton is cut apart to only be surface decoration (I've been painting and preparing a better looking one than I used in this test run), should hopefully come out looking quite nice.

I do have a question for those more experienced at this than I (this will be my first bonchi):
As you can see in the first picture, the trunk of my pepper rather quickly splits apart into a mass of stems.  I'm thinking it won't make for a particularly impressive bonchi if I let it stay that way, so I'm planning on pruning a good portion of them off when I cut the rest back.  Thing is, I can't decide at the moment which ones to keep, and which ones should go (probably at least attempt to root the biggest ones I break off, so as not to totally waste them).

On one hand, I'm thinking it would be cool to prune all of them except the back two or three.  Its already growing in a curved shape with the main trunk, I could just follow that curve with the branches I leave and try to go for a gnarly old haunted tree look.  Then wire the new growth over in a windswept look following that same curve.  Problem there is that would require cutting back at least 2/3s of the branches, leaving a thick fat trunk and then some spindly (by comparison) fingers poking up.  I could use the ledge created by all those missing branches for some more decorations though.

On the other hand, I could leave all the outside branches and prune away the inside branches and go for a kind of clawed hand look.  Riskier that way, both in terms of how the final bonchi would look and with getting the middle branches out without damaging the outside ones though.

Anyone have any thoughts and/or suggestions?