I would arte this savina about 3 on a 10 point scale. The fatalli was a 9 a few weeks ago, maybe 7-8 or less now.

I tasted a wirri-wirri (which I would rate 7) a safi (4), Indian pc-1 (4-5) lemon drop (5-6 now, but was about a 7 a few weeks ago), peanut (4), orange hab (5-6). Those are the ones I expected to be hot to very hot, but really aren't.

Could growing conditions influence heat this significantly? Its been getting cool at night - fall is clearly hear, many of the pepper plants are starting to yellow just a bit.

Joe

I sampled aa number of peppers today and they seem rather mild. I tasted a fatalli a couple weeks ago and the one I picked today was considerably less hot. Anyone know if the heat levels decline as the season progresses?

Also, I planted some Savina seeds this spring. The plant produced big beautiful peppers that had very little heat. A cross maybe?

Joe

My little hydro experiment this year continues to aamaze me - the growth rate is so impressive. I would like to build more hydro systems and am wondering which produce the best growth rates.

I'm using a simple tub with a couple bubblers (6 inch strips used for aquariums) and change the water out every 2-3 weeks. In this system all the roots have access to nutrients all the time.

The drip systems seem to be less efficient because they only get nutrients to some of the roots some of the time and the ebb-flow systems get nutrients to all the roots but not all the time. The mist systems are more elaborate and expensive and I wonder if they do any better than the simple system I'm using.

So...I'm asking what people's experience has been and if there is any research on this?

Joe

Hello all -

A rabbit or woodchuck chewed off the top of one of my pepper plants a few days ago. The plant was about 20 inches tall and about the top 20% was removed. I noticed that side shoots are growing fast along the stem of the plant as a result.

Do people generally pinch peppers back to produce side shoots? Some of mine are a little leggy.

Joe

Thanks both. I'll switch the fertilizer and do so with my other peppers as they start to flower.

Joe

They are growing in potting soil and get fertilized with an all-purpose 10-15-10 liquid fertilizer. Instructions say to apply 7 drops per quart of water every time you water the plants. The plants grew from seeds I planted over two months ago and have been growing in a big south window in my office - pretty regular temps around 70F - 22C.

I thought I had read that flower drop-off may be caused by over-dosing with fertilizer?

I have a plant cherry bomb blooming but a high precentage of flowers fall off after blooming. The flower and stem both fall off together. The cherry bombs are growing along side anchos which are doing fine.

Is this an indication of too much fertilizer? Nitrogen?

Thanks -

Joe

I slapped this together - feedback is welcome. Curious to see what people's experience with this lighting might be. It certainly looks bright!

The flourescents produce a considerable warmth which may be good for starting seeds. Plants can't be placed as close though as the bulbs get rather warm to the touch.

http://www.pangeaeducation.org/lights/

Joe

I thought it might be that but the plant is indoors (in my office) where the temps are at 70F.

It started after I switched out the water. Wonder if the chlorine or too much fertilizer could cause this? The other (smaller plants in the same solution don't seem to be suffering at all.

Curious.

Joe

Here's a detailed explanation:

http://www.geocities.com/teeley2/overdrv1.html

and another:

http://www.gwapa.org/articles/ODNO/

My problem is that the wires coming from my new ballasts do not match the wires in his diagram - so I don't know what to do with them :-)

Joe

I followed instructions on the internet to "overdrive" a flourescent light - essentially adding a second ballast so each tube has its own. I had read the light output is about 1.7 times greater - and it does appear to be much brighter. Apparently by using this technique with the 50 watt high output flourescents you can build very bright, efficient systems.

Have others tried this and if so did you notice any difference?

I know it will shorten the light's effective life somewhat, and the bulb is a little hotter, but not much.

Joe

I want to thaank everyone here (again) for all the help!

I have some plants growing in a hydro set-up. I started the seeds in 1.5 inch rockwool cubes. The tomato is growing faster than the pepper - the tomato stem at it's base is now pushing against the inside of the hole in the cube. It appears that the rockwool is strangling the plant - as it warms up during the day the plant starts to wilt, then seems to recover as it cools in the evening (indoors, but sitting in the sun).

Is it possible or likely that the rockwool is constricting the plant stem or will the plant eventually push the whole wider?

Joe

I'm just realizing that using my local tap water means adding chlorine, flouride and lots of minerals (hard water here) to my hydro set up. Does anyone have info about the effect of these substances on pepper growth?

Thanks again,

Joe

Sorry so many questions, and thanks again for the advice.

I'm reading tonight that some peppers, especially Habenaro types, need bone meal several times through the growing season. Is this others experience too, and if so, when would one begin using it?

Also, some say only fish fertilizer for seedlings as it won't burn. Any opinions?

Thanks -

Joe

So my peppers are doing rather well I think (Thanks everyone for your help). All have been moved back and forth daily from a south window to florescent lights, i.e. they get 24 hours light. What effect does 24/7 light have on peppers?

2nd question: Do fans help produce a "stiffer" plant? Although mine look OK, they seem a little soft: soft leaves, maybe a little weak stemmed. I don't use a fan currently.

Joe

Thanks again all. I have another (possibly stupid) question. My cucumbers have distinct male and female flowers. Do peppers?

Joe

My pubescens seeds sprouted a few weeks ago. I've been doing a little reading and came across this -

"Some sources state that because of their long growing season and need for long day length, the pubescens varieties are unsuitable for cultivation in the United States. However, experiments have shown that plants started early can achieve fruiting in one season. Some plants may not fruit because there is mostly self-incompatibility in the species. To set fruit, pollen must be transferred by bees or humans from a neighboring plant of the same variety. The species also responds well to shading because the foliage has a tendency to burn in full sun."

Source: http://www.fiery-foods.com/dave/profile_pubescens.html

My questions - Anyone want to confirm the lack of self-compatibility? Will I have to assist pollination and if so how do I do that?

Joe

How big should the plant be before I transfer it to the hydro system? I have some whose roots are just beginning to poke through the outside of the rockwool cube. The plants are just beginning to show their "real" leaves.

Joe

How does one determine 8% moisture content?

Thanks.

How accurate does pH need to be - I'm using a simple system that relies on "eye-balling" a color match. Are more accurate meters worth investing in?

Have people who purchased the meters that read total dissolved nutrients worth it? (I know these are pretty subjective notions)

I have germinated 15 or so varieties this spring. In only 1 case (pubescens) the seedlings look very week - and the tips of the cotyledon leaves are yellow. Any clue as to what might cause this?

Joe